Over six years ago, I started a thread on a forum called goldismoney2. It is a forum created by people who believe in investing in Precious Metals. It is unique in the fact of not allowing any commercial content whatsoever. Any advertising or product promotion is strictly forbidden. It is well moderated and allows complete freedom of expression for the members. As long as the members do not engage in really obnoxious behavior, members can express themselves freely. I chose this forum as it was the only one I could find that had a section concerning Alternative Health topics, including colloidal silver. There was no other place for people to get honest information about colloidal silver. Someone in a colloidal silver business owns every other source I can find or they advertise on the site. Let’s face it. If you accept money from somebody, you’re not going to criticize them for what they say. Once you take money from someone, you are their prisoner. Let’s not kid ourselves. Money Talks, BS walks. Goldismoney2 is supported entirely and only by occasional contributions by the members.
I gave the three most important factors that I had found over the years for making colloidal silver. There were many members of goldismoney2 who had been making colloidal silver for years. They were using a great variety of methods, and many had colloidal silver generators from various manufacturers.

A Lucky Break

As it happened, the very first respondent was someone who had purchased my CSG1 generator. That was a pleasant surprise. His goldismoney2 ID is GOLDBRIX. The art of making colloidal silver thread has been running for six years and has over 900 posts. A new member learned about the thread and asked the following honest questions:

Mar 13, 2020 post number 712

Hi, I am a newbie to this forum, and came here because I am interested in making some colloidal silver, but I am confused.

It seems to be hard to get answers to what should be simple questions. Maybe you all can help me ?

What voltage should I use ? I have seen a range from 5v to 30v with many people just saying 18v..

What kind of amperage should my power supply be? I see all kinds of answers from very low current to very high current and everything in between, I also see people saying I should use a resistor as a current limiting device, but whatever this limit is will change as the resistance of the water changes. I think it also would change depending on the surface area of the electrodes, In my case I have a .99999 one oz silver round that I was going to cut in half.

Should I use AC or DC most people say DC but some say AC. I can see some possible advantages to AC as far as reducing the plating your electrodes and maybe it could cause a stirring efect in the water but ?

why should I buy a TDS tester if I already have a good ohm meter, it seems that all these (at least the inexpensive ones) do is measure resistance, if so what final resistance should I want ?”

He was replied to in the following way:

This is not a forum where people bend over backward to be nice to you, trying to sell you something. Those who have stuck it out have made a considerable effort to listen and appreciate different points of view. It is not been easy to sort out the rights and wrongs of colloidal silver. It has taken some effort. If this questionnaire had read through the 800 posts on the thread, his questions would have been answered.

“ok, bill, — one:

An ohm meter is not sensitive enough to measure micro amps accurately, you need a specialized range.

Welcome to GIM

If you want your information you’re gonna have to read through this thread — all 18 pages of it.”

“As BF sez above “welcome” Billmr. Your first assignment like BF sez is to read the thread 1st to last pages. In the history here we have addressed probably everything you have questions about even using .9999 fine rounds as electrodes and what some of us have used in our early days for electrical sources and amperage.

Those of us who write here are not long winded unless there is technical jargon or reports involved so starting at the beginning and reading to here is like getting the Readers Digest versions of many various lifetimes of experience with CS /EIS.

Once you get up to speed and still have a question or two we will be more than happy to help you from there.

Afterall:

We Are Our Own Researchers ( WAOOR)

DYODD,

billmr looks like he didn’t wanna read to find his info. Could someone please send him a synopsis of the whole 18 pages? “


So, he was never heard from again. The posters do not reveal the real names for contact information. If I had known how to contact him, I would’ve tried to help him out. There was nothing wrong with his questions.
The members who replied to him had been working with me on making colloidal silver for six years. Many different methods involving air bubblers, stirring, chemicals, and electrolysis and then discussed.
All this started me thinking. There is a great wealth of information about making colloidal silver in those 23 pages. The thread is a unique source of information about colloidal silver and how it can be made. It resolves many conflicting issues by the process of open discussion. Everyone was encouraged to take part. Independent testing was conducted. That is why it is at the head of the list of threads in what the forum calls its “Treasure Chest” .

Let’s have a look at my very first post on the goldismoney2 forum:

On Mar 15, 2014#1 I posted:

Three factors will determine the quality of the colloidal silver that you make. The first is the water that you use. It must be distilled to a high degree of purity. You will need some way to check that the water you are using is pure enough. The distilled water that sold in grocery stores in 1-gallon containers will generally be good enough. You will still need some way to check it. That can be done with a conductivity meter or by some method included in the design and function of whatever generator we use.

The second factor is the purity of the silver that we use. We want silver ions and preferably no other metals. We want to make a solution containing silver ions, as they are proven to be of great benefit. Many other metals can do us great harm. We must take every precaution we can to avoid taking toxic metals into our bodies. That is why we use only 9999 silver wire and insist on a certificate of analysis showing the impurities that are present. In the case of the highest quality silver, the most significant contamination will be copper which is not bad in small amounts. That will be the case in silver that comes directly from silver ore. If you buy silver without an assay certificate, it could contain scraps from manufacturing facilities that are alloying silver with any number of other metals. So it’s not just a matter of it being 9999, but what is the nature of the additional .01%. When we make colloidal silver, the result is a liquid solution with silver in parts per million (PPM). It makes no sense to try to economize on this. If we consider making colloidal silver at a strength of 10 PPM, for example, 1 ounce of silver wire could make theoretically 100,000 ounces or 1500 gallons of colloidal silver.

The third factor is the amount of time that we allow the process. Hydrogen will appear at the cathode (the negatively charged electrode, where electrons enter the water), and oxygen will appear at the anode (the positively charged electrode). In the days of the 3 9 V battery and silver coins method, we would wait until we saw a cloud. That we were told were pieces of silver forming in the water and stopping the process soon after that. In reality, the cloud created by hydrogen and oxygen microbubbles and meant that the process was in a runaway mode. Disconnecting the batteries at that point would, if you were lucky, get you perhaps a five PPM colloidal silver solution. It would not keep its strength for very long as the larger particles would quickly collide with and absorb the silver ions. A few of us promoted the use of current limiting to prevent the runaway condition. Some of us noted that the higher resistance we used, the better results we obtained in both higher PPM and stability. Many of us tried every conceivable method of stirring to allow the use of a higher current to speed up the process. All of my efforts in this direction failed. I could not get around the fact that for a given surface area of silver anode only a certain amount of current was allowed. There is a region surrounding the anode called the Nernst diffusion area. That is a region that will only allow a specific density of ions to exist before they agglomerate into larger particles. So for those of you with your setups for making colloidal silver, try reducing the current and allowing more time and let us know the results. In my next post, I explained how I found the use of a quality laser pointer to be of benefit in determining when to stop the process. It is as follows:

Mar 16, 2014#2 GOLDBRIX posts:

“Like a good BBQ, Quality ingredients and Slow “cooking” makes the best production. FWIW, I use the AtlasNova CSG-1 (Colloidal Silver Generator-1) for years now.

Figured out a while back how to convert house electric with an old unused battery recharger (converts to 12 V DC). So now I got the best of both worlds. House electric when I’m at home or remove some electrical tape and snap in a 9 volt for “Travel Mode” operations.”

AtlasNova CSG-1 (Colloidal Silver Generator-1)

From here on this page will look at what I consider to be the high points of the forum discussion on making colloidal silver. Each post will be preceded by the date, number and author. Clicking on the date will take you to the forum itself. You can at any time refer to the main menu to explore any particular areas of interest.

I use a resistor in series that is my current limiter. Yes- I think it is something that should not be rushed. Let the low current gently pop the tiniest bits of silver into the water.


Apr 1, 2014#5

TN_Preacher

What value of resistor do you use? Maybe the question should be what is the ideal current to maintain when making CS? I use a voltage-regulated power supply at 27 V DC. I put in a meter to measure the current when I generate CS and found that water temperature plays a huge role in the amount of current that flows through the electrodes. When I start generation, current is typically around 1 ma, but increases to around 5 ma after 45 minutes to an hour. I’m not sure what the ideal current flow is for CS, but I know from experience that when larger currents flow due to water being too warm, I would get black deposits in the water.

Also, what would be the recommended water temperature for generating CS, if anyone knows?

BLUESKY99 COMMENTED:

1-5 mA sounds a bit high. Are you using distilled water or tap water or well water? Tap or well water can have higher conductivity and thus cause a higher current flow. Also, your electrodes might be too close together.

Apr 6, 2014#10 dirt to oil commented:

I have been toying with the idea of using a couple of maples for the electrodes in making my first ever batch of CS, powered by 3, 9 volt batteries in series , anyone more experienced than me care to chime in on my likely results?

Apr 8, 2014#11 I replied:
Congratulations on your ingenuity at going ahead and making your own colloidal silver. I used the maple leafs for many years before I started having my own silver wire made by a special refinery to the purity of 99997. The smooth surface of wire works out much better and ends up really costing less as much less is wasted by the collection of crud which is caused by the many fine little indentations of the maple leaf coins.
How are you going to suspend them in the water? Do not use alligator clips. You don’t want anything in or near the water but pure silver. Even if you were careful to not splash them, they would pick up Condensation and you would have a path for electrolysis to occur, which it will. You will then find yourself making ionic nickel or cadmium. When I used them I drilled holes in them and chained them together with 12gauge 999, the purest wire I could buy at the time.

APR 8, 2014#12
AT THIS POINT MEMBER GOLDBRIX POSTED:

Guys and Gals on this thread IF you are into The Art of Making Colloidal Silver go ahead and purchase a TDS ( Total Dissolved Solids) meter, about 20 bucks +/-.A TDS meter can be used to not only check your pre-production Distilled Water for levels of solids remaining in your water source but the meter can also give you a ball-park estimate of the parts per million of Ag in your final CS/ EIS product run. NOTE: Meters are calibrated with Saline/ Saltwater. A Calcium-Chloride particle is roughly 2 -2.5 times the size of an Ag particle so you do need to do the multiplication of your meter reading. ( A lot of idiots on Utube are shown using TDS Meters but failing to do the math.) For those of us who are “Mad-Scientist” re-calibrating can be done by you or have the manufacturer do the re-calibration. I prefer to just do the math as it still is only a ball-park figure.


I posted:
Here is an EC meter that will read in microsiemens. This will give you a reading of ionic silver PPM directly on a one-for-one basis. I have ordered two of these and when they arrive I will compare them to my lab quality instrument that you see pictured in the instructions for my products.

I expect they will work pretty well for our purposes. Another item that everyone should have is digital multimeter. The ones I use sell for as little as three dollars at times from HarborFreight. If you use one of these on the 2 V DC range across a one K resistor you will read your current in microamps.

Malus posted on May 7, 2014#17

I’ve been making my own for years. I use Maples suspended by alligator clips. I use a glass quart jar/distilled water, plastic lid. Two slots are “carefully” cut in plastic lid and maples are slid in (tight on the sides). The alligators are attached to the top of the maple (not on the water side) which suspends about 1/2 the maple in the water with a small air space/then plastic lid/ then silver. No cross contamination). I bought a cheap fish tank air pump and some surgical grade hose to insert in the mix to agitate the water. I used an old d/c answering machine transformer (alligator on each side). Its takes about 4-5 hrs to make myself a batch of 10-15 ppm. I filter it into a dark glass container using non bleached coffee filters to take any sludge away. I stop the process every 20 min. or so to clean the coins off (they start building up crud). A TDS is an absolute must. Mine cost me $50 or so. The trick is the distance between the two coins and the current you’re using. Distilled water (0 ppm) is a must and only silver is in the water. Thats it……..

GOLDBRIX posts:

I thought about a bubbler but then I thought about the air intake of the bubbler. Even with a HEPA filter on the intake there is the possibility of minute dust particles being blown into your distilled water during electrolysis. Even if you have a clean house, room, work area, dust particles are every where other wise we would not have air filters for HVAC house units. So I have plastic lids I use to cover the water during processing. I pick up one or two extra when I get a fountain soft drink occasionally when needed, which is not that often. And slice a slit just long enough to get my AtlasNova SG-1’s electrodes through and down into the water.

I asked him:I’m trying to figure out with this why you would have so much silver deposited on the glass….. …..Hence the CSG1 came to be. Under $50. It does the job. Not perfect, but, as Tony Bennett sang, “close enough for love”.

GOLDBRIX answers:

I am not using straight sided glasses. I use a wide-mouth 24oz / 800ml Ball Jar, and an old glass decanter with roughly the same capacity.

I had made over five gallons , roughly a quart at a time, of CS/EIS during the time span of the plating. In the years I’ve had my CSG-1 I have just used up my first silver rods, late last year, that came with the rig, and I’ve only done maybe three cleanings with perioxide to removed the plating. I save that solution for topical treatments of wounds and to use on the boys’ helmet acne via a spray bottle.

I replied:

The CSG1 was developed using a straight-sided glass of 10 or 12 ounces in size….. ANSWER: Yes, I have the CSG-1 ( I’m a cheap S.o.B, and I push my rig close to the limits of production capacity.) Since these jars I use were not conducive to using the silver rods over the edge I first used wooden grilling squewers[sp?] to create a platform for the CSG-1 circuit board to sit on and let the rods hang down into the distilled water. A few months later I thought about and tried the clear plastic soda fountain drink lids. I make the center slits larger and push the silver rods through so they hang down into the jar of distilled water.

TN preacher posted:

I make my own distilled water from well water, so it should be free of iron, salts, etc. Electrodes have plenty of separation, being at opposite sides of the jar. My thinking is that I sometimes use water that is too high in temperature. I will make sure it stays cooler, as GB mentioned, and I think that will keep the current down below 1 ma. But I will also need to run the process for a longer period than 1 hr. That pdf file (https://www.atlasnova.com/1halfgalinstfin.pdf) mentioned running for up to 24 hours, but that sounds a bit excessive. Maybe with lower water temps I will need to, I guess I’ll find out.

I replied:
What is the area of your silver anode? I have found that anything over 50 Microamps per square inch of surface area will start the generation of particles large enough to limit the effectiveness and shelf life of the final product. As long as you keep your current below this level, you should be able to generate a clear and potent product. For a given volume of water the less silver of the anode, the more time you have to take.

TRYNEIN said:

My local jeweler sold me some 999- 16 gauge wire for $8.00 p/ft and I went to the goodwill store where they had an assortment of transformers for $2.00 a piece

I bought 1 that is 5v-300ma and 1 that is 24v-4.5a

I also bought a diode to cut the 4.5a down to .5a, that was the lowest I could find without ordering online

The 5v transformer does seem to work, just seems slower which I would think is a good thing

I replied:
You don’t mention any current limiting device. A laser pointer checks to see if you are making any particles at all. I have found that anything below 9 V doesn’t do much of anything. The 24 V 4.5 without a current limiting resistor would quickly produce silver mud.
“I also bought a diode to cut the 4.5a down to .5a, that was the lowest I could find without ordering online”
A diode would reduce the voltage but I think you’re confused about the amperage.
“The 5v transformer does seem to work, just seems slower which I would think is a good thing”
I replied:

#59

At this point, I’d like to add something to the original post. There is a great deal of confusion about ionic versus particulate colloidal silver. The way we measure the concentration or strength of ionic colloidal silver is by its conductivity. We measure this in Microsiemens. One Microsiemen of conductivity equals 1 ppm. The presence of ions causes conductivity in a liquid. Without ions, there is no conductivity. It is an insulator. No current will flow. So the very measure that we use to denote the strength of a colloidal silver solution is, by definition, the number of ions present. An ion is a single atom of an element, in this case, silver, with a single electron, either missing or added. For silver, the outer valence bond band contains only one electron. That makes it relatively easy for silver to become an ion as this outer electron is loosely held. It becomes a positive ion looking for some other element with which it can share an electron. Your body is one huge electrical factory with all sorts of elements very busily combining and disassociating. All of this is accomplished with ions. If you go into a hospital in a condition where they have to find out what’s wrong with you, one of the very first things they will do is check your electrolytes. An electrolyte is a substance that dissociates into ions in solution and acquires the capacity to conduct electricity. Sodium, potassium, chloride, calcium, and phosphate are examples of electrolytes, informally known as lytes.
When we make colloidal silver, it is the process called electrolysis. Initially, everything that leaves the anode is an ion. If we try to make too many leave the anode simultaneously, they will start combining and discharge, forming particles of silver with 2, 3, or a thousand or more atoms and being discharged and losing their charge. If they become large enough, they will fall out of suspension and form little black dots at the bottom of the glass. If possible, to make a purely ionic solution, your colloidal silver would not make it past your mouth or nose or throat. There is some evidence that it’s a good idea for intestinal problems to have some particles make it down to your intestine. As long as they are small, they will pass through, and the ones that do make it into your bloodstream will be filtered out by your kidneys and pass in your urine within 48 hours. So we need some way to judge when we have made the particles to an acceptably small size to stop the process at that point. That coincides with the point at which we will have reached the maximum sustainable ionic strength in ppm. Before the availability of low-cost laser diodes, it was done with a small, tightly focused penlight. It would be shined down through the solution and form a cone-shaped rainbow caused by the particles’ diffraction. That is called the Tyndall effect. Lacking this, most people would continue the process until the entire solution had a yellow tinge. Unfortunately, by the time the whole solution becomes yellow, the particles are more than 100 nm in size. Continued daily use, which is the case with many people, of this type of colloidal silver could lead to argyria. That is a cause of concern for very light-skinned people. A laser enables us to start seeing the particles of a size less than 20 nm. Unfortunately, virtually all the cheap laser pointers from China have no regulation. The power of the laser in these devices will vary directly with the condition of the battery. That is not acceptable in a piece of test equipment. Atlasnova went to Taiwan and secured the supply of a line of laser pointers that are tightly regulated. The least expensive of these is the one supplied with the various colloidal silver generator kits sell. It maintains an exact power until the battery is completely dead. The scattering effect causes the phenomenon that produces the red line in the laser solution. Many still referred to this as a Tyndall effect.

#63

Caveat emptor
Here is a email that I received from one of AtlasNova’s customers.
“Hello, im aware the pure silver wire you have is 4 nines but on the ”COA” it states that it is 99.997% silver so how come you don’t display it as 99.997% and not 99.99%? since there are sellers who sell silver wire titling it as 99997. Is this silver wire made out from Canadian maple silver coins? many thanks”
https://www.atlasnova.com/pdf/certificate of analysis.pdf
I answered,
Thank you for watching out for us. We don’t display it as 99.997% because it will vary from one batch to another. We typically order 1000 ounces each of 10 and 12 gauge and a sample of that melt is sent to an independent laboratory for the report. So the next batch could be 99996 or eight, we only specify that it be better than 99995. We have been having this silver wire made for the past 15 years for people who are making their own colloidal silver and are concerned about the purity of what they put in their bodies. The people who are intelligent enough to appreciate the fact that we at AtlasNova refuse to compromise in this regard are the people who others go to for advice. They are called “influencers”. When we started this only 999 Silver wire was available. We were using Canadian silver Mapleleaf silver coins for making our own colloidal silver at that time. It took a while for us to find a specialty refiner willing to contract to us to supply us with 99995 or better. In fact, it looked as though we would have to do just as you suggest in asking a refiner to meltdown silver maple leaves and turn them into wire. We even bought 2000 of them from APMEX. This turned out pretty well as we kept them until silver climbed to over $20, helping to pay for the next batch from our refiner.
When we find someone fraudulently offering our products on platforms such as eBay, Amazon, Etsy and so forth we contact the platform informing them of our trademarks and so on. This takes care of the problem in that regard. When it is just some guy bringing up a website we email them politely asking them to cease and desist. Some of these people actually use our images which they grab off the net. Photo editing software makes it easy to remove our watermarks. It is not practical for us to initiate legal action against the kind of people who would engage in such activity. If they had any assets they wouldn’t be engaging in fraudulent activity. We have to rely on the intelligence of our customers.
As always, DYODD

#65

The geometry and the power supply voltage of your colloidal silver generator setup determine what resistor value should be used for the process. Since distilled water is a resistor, increasing the distance between the two electrodes means the two electrodes’ resistance increases proportionately. For example, in my generators, the simplest and least expensive one uses only 9 V. The electrodes are quite close together. With a suitable current limiting resistor, it takes 2 to 3 hours to accumulate ions in the water to reach the level necessary to reduce the water’s resistance to the point where the maximum current flows. The value of the series resistor will determine the maximum current. This resistor is in series with the power source and electrodes. The resistor’s value is determined by the maximum value of current you desire. For example, let’s say you build a setup that uses a 48 V DC supply. Using 48 V allows you to space the electrodes as far apart as the container opening allows and still can build up to maximum current in a reasonable length of time. 48 V DC is the maximum voltage that may be legally used to come into direct contact in an application accidentally. It is used in telephone systems. To determine the current limiting resistor’s value, you need to divide the voltage you are using by the amperage desired. For example:

48 V divided by .0005 or 500 µA equals 96,000 ohms. One hundred thousand ohms would be a standard value and would be available at your local radio shack. Resistors are specified as to the amount of power they can dissipate as heat. We are still talking about very little power here, so that the smallest resistor will do, one-quarter watt. RadioShack supplies these in pacts of five for $.99. If you had 24 V, a 50,000 ohm, also a standard value, would work.


May 11, 2014#21
GOLDBRIX said:

You are taking the DIYer down to the very basics. Thanks for the information for those of us who are not so technically oriented.

Hunts1980 Hunts1980 opined:

Most agree that 3x 9v batts is best, 27v near perfect for creating the smallest nano particles of silver.

There is no such thing as the “perfect voltage” for making colloidal silver. What we have here is a system consisting of a battery or a wall wart AC adapter (voltage) distilled water between the silver electrodes (resistance) and the resulting current (milliamps). It is important to understand that the voltage and resistance factors determine the amount of current in this system. It is the current in any electrical system that does the actual work. In Michael Faraday’s theory of electrolysis, voltage, and resistance are not mentioned. The number of ions created is a function only of the current.
The 27 volts issue is dealt with in the very first post of this thread. I would suggest a careful reading of the thread from the start.

It has been some 30 years since I began suggesting the use of current limiting and a laser pointer in making colloidal silver. Before that time, the accepted method was using two silver coins, three nine-volt batteries, and a dash of salt. A watchful eye to stop the process when it had a yellow tint was essential. The trick was to stop the process before the water turned into black gunk. At this time, a man who claimed he was a retired oncologist selling vitamin supplements introduced the use of a fish tank bubbler. That worked to the extent that it prevented the runaway condition that caused the three nine volts’ problems. Electricity cannot flow through an air bubble, so the current path was repeatedly interrupted by the flow of bubbles between the electrodes. This guy became very popular and sold many people a kind of subscription for vitamins and made some money. I understand that he was later arrested and jailed for mail fraud. This method is still prevalent as it does work, at least to the extent of preventing the rapid formation of black sludge. To give him credit, I think he also told people not to use salt. This method was not as quick as the three nine volts, which meant that it took more time, but people didn’t mind so much because they could always watch the bubbles.
There is a problem with this. As there is no current limiting device, i.e., “resistor” in the circuit, the current between bubbles will not be limited. The particles leaving the silver anode will be in relatively large chunks. The scattering effect of coherent light causes the laser line formed in the solution. The amount of light reflected is not directly proportional to the size of the particle. For instance, a particle 10 nm in size will only reflect 1/1000 the amount of light as a particle 100 nm in size. Therefore, using this method to determine when to stop the process will cause the process to end when a relatively small number of relatively large particles are in solution, which is just the opposite of what we want.
I hope everyone keeps experimenting and keeps an open mind on improving the process. Those of you who are using bubblers and have a TDS meter would do well to check whether or not the bubblers are adding oxygen to your water, yielding you a false indication of silver PPM. To do this, run your bubbler for the same length of time without silver. Take a reading of ppm. It is from carbon dioxide and oxygen.
Not only will we be not reading a number of silver ions but also seriously compromising our colloidal silver purity.

GOLDBRIX posts:

“…One OHM equals one Siemen. Ten ohms equals one tenth of a Siemen.”…

Is the above statement correct ?

If so that is confusing as hell. One equals one, But TEN equals 1/10 ?

That’s why I leave the technical to you. 

I respond:
How did we end up here? The trail of the art of making colloidal silver led us to this point. Our objective has been to create a solution containing as many silver ions as possible for a given volume of water. It is a value measured in ppm “parts per million.” A TDS meter measures PPM but in salt ions. A more scientifically acceptable method is a proper conductivity meter. A conductivity meter will give a reading in microsiemens. It is a happy coincidence that one Microsiemen reading on a conductivity meter in a distilled water and silver ions solution will indicate a PPM of 1 ppm of ionic silver.
I found this to be valid 20 years ago when I started experimenting with making colloidal silver. The conductivity meter that you will see on the Generator instructions on the Atlasnova website was made in California and cost over $1000 at that time. Since then, the Chinese have been able to produce small devices that, while not as accurate as mine, are very useful and cost less than $10.
Now back to the Vortex of confusion. In our discussion of do-it-yourself methods of making colloidal silver, we speak of simple, direct current circuits involving only the factors of voltage, resistance, and current. When we start discussing terms such as conductance (microsiemens), we enter a world of AC and network theory. The objective of this thread must remain to encourage people to make their colloidal silver. In doing so, they will not harm themselves. Exaggerated claims will not mislead them. They will not be ripped off by those hustlers, who produce a torrent of words and say nothing real.

TAEZZAR posts:

Hey, thanks, I have exactly one of those & I was considering it. Then as I read more, it seemed that 24 vdc @1500 milliamps (I have one of those too) with a 50K resistor, would put out .0005 milliamps (500 micro amps) & yield a finer solution.

I like the simplicity of your set-up. I’m just wondering if the lower amps would make that much of a difference. I have a TDS/EC meter coming & I also have a laser pointer, so I’m getting there.

I reply:
Here’s a tip that might help. Put a 1 K resistor in series with the 50 K and put your multimeter set for DC 2 V across it. You will end up reading 0 to 2000 µA. Your beginning current will be much lower than 500 µA, depending on how pure your distilled water is. Position the Maple leaves as far apart as you can get them and be careful to not allow any water onto the alligator clips. If you are prepared to be patient, I believe you will find this process to produce a much better solution. By all means, try it without the resistor and see the results, so that you’ll have a benchmark.

Jan 20, 2016#118 chrisflhtc

I have not heard many here give any “specifics” about how to make CS. I am asking particularly about information given by someone who has something to sell. Not a personnel attack on anyone but a request for a repeatable formula with some “evidence” maybe some references to some studies or some such? Or even some formulas that correlate current flow and voltage and such, voltage being directly related to how many mg of silver is being discharged into the water per time unit,what are you using for an electrolyte? being that pure distilled water is almost a non conductor how do you establish a current flow? Is there some way to stabilize the CS once you’ve made it? Inquiring minds and all that dontcha know.
Chris

GOLDBRIX posts:

I just re-read the first page of this thread. To me it seems most of the “specifics” are well addressed there.
Recipe for CS/Electrically Isolated Silver:
Distilled Water : Make your own or Retail ( Our local Krogers seems to always have ds that tests .000ppm just a suggestion)
Two .999 Fine or BETTER Ag electrodes. ( Numerous sizes and shapes and some use .999fine silver dollars, not me).
NOTHING goes into the ds water except the two silver electrodes PERIOD !!!
A source for voltage – a 9 volt battery will do. Some of us use old converters w/ a resistor ( Go check out AtlasNovadotCOM) for Photographs of Equipment & Instruction.

FYI- No two productions will turn out the same even when everything is done exactly the same. Produced CS/EIS appearances can be affected by sunlight, Lack of sunlight, temperature, and barometric pressure, and those are just the ones I know. Others here may of even more influences.

This is the main reason to purchase and EC Meter discussed in previous posts if you are trying to produce the same amount of ppm in each batch.
You buy or build the proper “rig” for generating CS/EIS you should also spend the dime for a laser pointer too.

We Are Our Own Researcher,
Do Your Own Due Diligence,

Thecrensh said:

Does anyone have a recommended commercial CS generator? I don’t have the time/space to construct my own, but am interested in making my own.

GOLDBRIX posts:

ATLASNOVA.COM has several sizes, styles and prices to choose from.

Once I decided to DIMyself I searched through various manufacturers and I decided to go with an Atlasnova CSG-1 that used a nine volt battery. after about a year and a half I “jerry-rigged” my CSG-1 to use either a 9 volt battery ( travelling / Bugout), or plug into a wall socket using an old AC adapter I had laying around.

Although the information says it will make 12 oz of CS in 3-4 hours I find it will make a quart by providing a couple more hours .

The two .9999 Fine silver wires (electrodes) last well into their second year of very heavy use.

Never been a single issue with my CSG-1 equipment and I have had it for several years now.

That’s my opinion and suggestion.

For the NEWBIES that read these posts CLEANING of your silver electrodes is done with nylon scrubbing pads.

DO NOT use metal scouring pads. You risk the possibility of metal and chemical contamination being left on the silver and introduced into your production during electrolysis. You no longer have safe CS/EIS.

The contamination creates a solution and a RISK NOT WORTH TAKING.

hat’s my opinion and suggestion.

#119chrisflhtc said:

I have not heard many here give any “specifics” about how to make CS. I am asking particularly about information given by someone who has something to sell. Not a personnel attack on anyone but a request for a repeatable formula with some “evidence” maybe some references to some studies or some such? Or even some formulas that correlate current flow and voltage and such, voltage being directly related to how many mg of silver is being discharged into the water per time unit,what are you using for an electrolyte? being that pure distilled water is almost a non conductor how do you establish a current flow? Is there some way to stabilize the CS once you’ve made it? Inquiring minds and all that dontcha know.

GOLDBRIX posts:

Chris

I just re-read the first page of this thread. To me it seems most of the “specifics” are well addressed there.

Recipe for CS/Electrically Isolated Silver:

Distilled Water : Make your own or Retail ( Our local Krogers seems to always have ds that tests .000ppm just a suggestion)

Two .999 Fine or BETTER Ag electrodes. ( Numerous sizes and shapes and some use .999fine silver dollars, not me).

NOTHING goes into the ds water except the two silver electrodes PERIOD !!!

A source for voltage – a 9 volt battery will do. Some of us use old converters w/ a resistor ( Go check out AtlasNovadotCOM) for Photographs of Equipment & Instruction.

FYI- No two productions will turn out the same even when everything is done exactly the same. Produced CS/EIS appearances can be affected by sunlight, Lack of sunlight, temperature, and barometric pressure, and those are just the ones I know. Others here may of even more influences.

This is the main reason to purchase and EC Meter discussed in previous posts if you are trying to produce the same amount of ppm in each batch.

You buy or build the proper “rig” for generating CS/EIS you should also spend the dime for a laser pointer too.

I then add the following:

from the preceding post:
FYI- No two productions will turn out the same even when everything is done exactly the same. Produced CS/EIS appearances can be affected by sunlight, Lack of sunlight, temperature, and barometric pressure, and those are just the ones I know. Others here may of even more influences.”
This is very true. The main influence on the outcome seems to be the quality of the distilled water that is used. If you notice a difference in the measured PPM of the colloidal silver you make, check the water first. If the water is the same, decontaminate.

I purchased an Atlasnova Colloidal Silver Generator CSG1 – AC

Note:

I have a digital multi-meter

I do not have a laser pointer

Questions:

Which one of your lasers is the best for testing colloidal silver mixtures?

How do you use the multi-meter for testing

any other resources for how to use the above items?

Thanks,
Mark

I reply:

It is not necessary to use a multimeter with the csg1. The multimeters are used in our larger kits to track the actual current in microamps flowing between the electrodes. In the csg1, this function is served by a superior one mA maximum light-emitting diode. This LED is over ten times as sensitive as a typical LED. That enables it to give a good indication of the purity of the distilled water. When you place the csg1 into the glass of distilled water, the LED should be only very dimly lit. If it has any noticeable brightness at all, it is indicating the water is not pure enough. As the process continues, the LED will become brighter and brighter, indicating the increasing presence of ions in the water, increasing the conductivity.

As to the usefulness of laser pointers in making colloidal silver,
We use the 650nm model for checking the amount and size of silver particles generated. That is the same wavelength used by the Malvern particle size analyzer that cost over $50,000. The Atlasnova laser pointers are made with a unique circuit that makes sure that the laser diode’s output power stays the same no matter the battery’s condition. That is important in anything that you use as a test instrument.

With the csg1 colloidal silver generator, after the light-emitting diode has increased its brightness over a period, 2 to 3 hours, you should start shining the laser pointer through the glass container. In a room with only dim light, a thin red line will appear as actual particles of silver are being formed in addition to silver ions. Some people still believe that silver particles, not just ions, are necessary for colloidal silver to be effective. The red line formed by the scattering effect of the laser beam by the particles will be seen. Some people mistakenly insist on calling this the Tyndall effect, observed using a bright, focused white light. It is not the same thing. A scattering effect with coherent laser light allows us to see much smaller particles. Our process is to observe that we have produced particles and stop the process before the particles have grown beyond a certain size. Many people still allow the process to continue until the water has a yellow hue. That occurs when the average particle size is 20nm and more. Continuous ingestion of colloidal silver with particles of this size in large quantities could result in Argyria. All legitimate published research has indicated that silver ions cause colloidal silver’s effectiveness, the smallest possible particle of silver, and charged.

“Any other resources for how to use the above items?”

Good advice is hard to come by. Most of it will come from people who are trying to sell you something. You must consider that fact. Many of these advice-givers have started their own so-called “Forums” to promote their ideas and sales. As they control these forums, they will receive no criticism. It is not unusual to see them publishing “reviews” of competitors’ products. There is only one place I know of where you can get some advice on this, and that is the “goldismoney2” forum. There is an alternative health section where you can get lots of advice, good and bad. It will, as always, be up to you to separate the wheat from the chaff. Good luck.

GOLDBRIX posts:

Well, Who sez you can’t teach an Ol’ Dog new tricks. This Ol’ Dog tries to learn something “new” each day no matter if it is minute or elaborate.
Thanks A… I just learned two things reading your post:

1). “… the red line formed by the scattering effect of the laser beam by the particles is observed. Some people mistakenly insist on calling this the Tyndall effect that can be observed using a bright focused white light. It is not the same thing.”…
I have always been under the impression the red laser protocol was one form of the Tyndall Effect gb

2). “… The Atlasnova laser pointers are made with the special circuit that makes sure that the output power of the laser diode stays exactly the same no matter what the condition of the battery.
Very Interesting piece of information. Especially when you read about DIYers using cat toy lasers and such. gb

ALSO
“…This is the same wavelength that is used by the Malvern particle size analyzer that cost over $50,000.”…
Members, I can verify and support this statement. Years ago while searching to find a independent source for verification purposes of my CS/EIS I contacted Malvern. I was informed their equipment was meant for high level production companies and their costs they felt were prohibitively high for an individual to pursue.

And I Agree w/ ” …There is only one place I know of where you can get some advice on this and that is the “goldismoney2″ forum. There is an alternative health section where you can get lots of advice, good and bad. It will, as always, be up to you to separate the wheat from the chaff”.

#133

A follow-up question just came in from Mark.

“Thank you for your detailed response regarding the laser.

Regarding the mulitimeter. It is part of your “Colloidal silver starter kit”. How do u use it to process and/or measure colloidal silver?

thanks,
Mark”

Atlasnova’s colloidal silver starter kit was our very first offering. We had been only selling the 9999 silver wire up to that point. Many customers for the silver wire would ask our advice on how to make colloidal silver. That was almost 20 years ago, and the widely accepted method at the time was adding salt and letting the current run wild, just letting things go until it turned yellow with a lot of gunk. Using a resistor to limit the current and the laser to find out when to stop the process was the answer. The batteries, the resistor, and the two electrodes separated in the water are connected in series. When the multimeter probes are placed across the series resistor, it reads the voltage dropped by the resistor. That represents the four 9V batteries (36 V) minus the voltage between the two silver wire electrodes. If the distilled water is of high quality, the voltage across the resistor will be relatively low as the current will be minimal. As more and more silver ions enter the distilled water, the water will become more conductive. That increases the current in the circuit, causing the voltage across the resistor to increase gradually. At a certain point in time, the increase in voltage across the resistor will slow, indicating that the ion production is slowing and the larger particles are formed. That will be confirmed with the use of the laser pointer. The multimeter will not measure the PPM of your resulting colloidal silver. To indicate this, you will need to purchase a TDS or EC meter. They are available on eBay for under $10.
Have a look at the instructions for using the starter kit.

After two years, information of use to someone who wants to make their colloidal silver from scratch had been made available. Experimenters should use batteries as a power source. That will keep you out of trouble. The little wall wart supplies that people start experimenting with are designed for use with a particular piece of equipment. When they are hooked up to experimental setups and shorted out, they can cause fires. More than one house has been burned to the ground by one of these units. It’s not worth it. If you follow our instructions about the amount of current to use, you will keep the current under one mA. The standard 9 V battery is rated at 900 mA hours. That means you can make colloidal silver with the following our instructions for at least 900 hours. The 9 V battery that you buy for use with a CSG one will last for a total of 150 glasses of colloidal silver. The CSG one is the obvious best choice for a budget-conscious person who wishes to make colloidal silver.

https://www.atlasnova.com/csk610.pdf

You can use these instructions to make your own colloidal silver generator. The different parts are available. Alternatively, you could simply purchase a CSG 1. Then all you have to do is buy a 9 V battery and some distilled water and you can start making colloidal silver then and there. The colloidal silver that you make with the CSG one will likely be as good as you will ever manage on your own without the use of a microprocessor.

AUG 23, 2019#420 FLAVAPOR:

I have been reading on this forum for the past few days. (New here) I am hoping someone can help me out. I purchased a silver generator that has good reviews from various sources and is even mentioned on this thread. It has a self shut off and is supposed to make 10 ppm solution and shut itself down. I purchased a ketotek TDS/EC reader. I tested my distilled water and it was zero. I tested my tap water (just to make sure it worked) and it read 160 ppm. I proceeded to make the CS which took about 8 hours in a quart sized jar. The solution was crystal clear, had almost no taste change, there was a very slight taste but not a metallic taste. The ppm registered as 1. I repeated the process with a new jar that was pint sized. It took 6 hours and again the ppm read 1. I have used it on a rash and it healed it, and I have been using it to gargle and have noticed zero plaque build up in the morning when I wake up, which was normal for me. So I feel like its working somewhat but I am concerned that I am not making a 10 ppm. What can I do short of sending it out to a lab to get the answer? I understand the TDS reader is not an accurate measure but even doubling that number is still well under what it should be.

AUG 23, 2019#421 GOLDBRIX POSTS:

Are you making TDS readings or EC readings ? They are not the same and are different.
Outside of an AtlasNova ULTRA making 50ppm EIS I do not like auto shut offs.
In my early days I made CS and went by color not using a TDS Meter. I’d run a production until it was light yellow – beer yellow. That would indicate the production was 10-15 ppm CS. Some I’d let run to almost a light gray indicating 20-25 ppm CS
They are photos on the internet and on Youtube videos to use as comparisons.
I believe sample photos are shown in one of our CS/EIS threads. We have a few that have been melded down to two threads – I THINK.
FYI – Do Not get hung up on set ppm numbers.
Effectiveness is what you want as a standard.
AND you are seeing results.
It could be something as simple as a bad TDS/EC meter. It seems your meter is reading ds water. You need a control sample to check your other range. That would take obtaining a sodium chloride sample you know its quality. IMO

Best Wishes, DYODD, Read the previous threads to get some ideas and guidance.

I REPLY:

Why not let whomever you bought it from know that you’re having a problem? Don’t they have a phone number? Technical support?

It doesn’t look as though our new member is going to ask for our help. Who knows why?. Perhaps he bought something on the net without checking out from whom he was buying it. That is probably not an uncommon occurrence. People live and learn.
I wonder how many people find themselves in a similar situation.? I know that Atlasnova gets many phone calls complaining that their colloidal silver generator isn’t working correctly and what can they do about it? Atlasnova has a policy of only giving technical assistance to those who have purchased Atlasnova products. Alvine answers the phone, and she rigidly enforces this. Fair enough, Atlasnova is a business, after all.
I’ll make the following offer to any viewer of the thread. If you need some help in making EIS, a.k.a. “improved colloidal silver,” call my cell phone, 509-720-0897. , and leave a short message about your problem. I will call you back and try to help you out when I can. Keep in mind that I make my living as a design engineer, charging by the hour, so I can’t be talking to you at the same time. However, I will call you and try to help you the next time I take a break.
PS
Don’t worry; I won’t sell you anything.

GOLDBRIX POSTS:

OK newbies, Go find another manufacturer or seller willing to do this for you as a member of GIM2.

When you find him/her/them/ let your fellow GIMMERS know too. Information has value yet member abeleand1 is going out of his way for you.
To help you improve your life and health.